Today, I woke up at 5:15am to howling winds. I was afraid this could potentially mean dangerous conditions on the road, perhaps stormy. I went downstairs to check the weather on the internet. Receptionist Anabel checked for me and to my pleasant suprise we found out that today, the wind would blow at twenty miles an hour from the north to south, and I was going south! It would be mostly sunny. Couldn't be better--the wind would be pushing me rapidly to my destination! My girlfriend had the same fears as me with the weather and text messaged me about that. Of course she doesn't want me to go, or at least she would love to have extra days. No such luck for her. I went back up and slept for another forty five minutes. My alarm went off at 7:15 and I came down.
I took a shower in alberca shower since I was staying in 603, which has no water (the rest of the hotel was full). I saluted Anabel, and Genado among others. Genado helped me get a towel, plus soap and shampoo. I had breakfast with Emilio, Sr. I had orange juice plus a selection of fruits, an omlette, beans and toast. I had to leave a bunch of items like some shirts because they wouldn't all fit on the bike, plus I wanted to cut down a little on weight.
Emilio signed my shirt; Juan had earlier. Mariela's boyfriend, who was waiting for Mariela, took a picture of me and Emilio, Jr. with the bike. I said bye to the crew of waiters, the cooks, the secretaries, lic. Pati, and others. A few girls on the school trip took pictures with me. I said goodbye to the folks at the Revolution restaurant--Marina and Jose. Marina gave me a torta, a banana and an apple. Then she gave me a waterbottle from "President" (a mexican beer company) and filled it with water. I drank one bottle, and then she refilled it.
Pretty soon, I took off. I went to Plaza Americas. The day, I thought, couldn't be better. The sun was bright, and with my new glasses, everything appeared crisp and beautiful. I felt as though, even though I had spent the last six weeks in Veracruz, everything appeared more interesting and worthy of admiring precisely because this could be the last time I saw the things I was seeing. Everything appeared "touristy": the monuments stood out, and the colors and architecture of the buildings as well. I had my camera, and I wanted to capture stuff now since I wouldn't be able to later. Makes me think now as I write about how people who are given a deadline on their life by doctors begin to appreciate everything in their life more just because they know they won't have it for long. And that makes me think of the saying, "Work as though you will live forever; Live as though you will die tomorrow." I took a few pictures, but as I am just getting used to this camera, I don't yet have a quick-draw method down that lets me take shots on the spur of the moment, even when my bike is still in motion.
As I moved along the boulevard, threading through traffic stuck at stoplights, and cruising between lights, the wind pushed me along at speeds over twenty miles per hour, and I felt I couldn't have picked a better day to ride. I passed into Boca del Rio. I went over to Plaza Americas where I would say goodbye to my girlfriend Hortencia. I brought my fully loaded bike into the plaza, and headed for Marti. I parked outside the store, and the employees, who all know I am going out with Hortencia, went to go tell Hortencia that I was at the store. She appeared and asked me what was going on. She did not expect me and thought I was long gone and she may never see me again, and she was determined to accept that fact. I told her that I was on my way out and I dropped in to say bye on my way out. I told her also that I need some tools for my bike. After she said that the store does sell any tools, I was suprised because the store carries bikes. I told her, though, that I did not need to buy tools; if I could just use some tools, that would be enough.. She alerted the staff and one staff with a backpack of tools came over and asked me which tools I wanted. I needed the philips screwdriver (cruz desarmador) and a very small allen wrench. He found the tools and I used them, and returned them. I told Hortencia I would miss her and call her. She asked me when I would come back. I told her perhaps eight months to a year.
We parted and I headed to the glasses store Devlyn to say goodbye and to get a new elastic band for my glasses as I my last one came off. Only Tomi and another older worker were there; none of the three younger women--Anita, Chelo or the girl from Oaxaca were there; they would come in at one, but I said I did not have time. Every minute of daylight is precious in terms of cycle touring; I need to arrive at my destination before nightfall. We worked out a solution for the glasses band. I even involved me breaking out a knot (nudo), the tautline hitch, that I learned with the Boy Scouts, and I told them that is where I learned it. The knot served to create a slide to loosen and tighten the cord as it lacked a slide. I parted with the staff and headed out. I pulled out of the plaza and into the other side of Boca del Rio, some of which I had never seen. I crossed the bridge over the mouth of the river, which is the name of the city. Soon, came to a fork in the road, one leading to Anton Lizardo, and town on the coast, and one toward Cordoba inland. If I took the route toward Cordoba, I would end up taking the same route I took the first time I biked to Tlacotalpan. I knew that if I took the road to Anton Lizardo, I would hug the coast more and meet up with a road I wanted to take because of its quality and because it avoided the section of road I fell on the last time where there was lots of gravel, and because the route was more direct. So I went toward Anton Lizardo. If nothing else, it would provide new terrain and vistas to experience. The road was good even though it was narrow and with no shoulder. Traffic was not heavy, was respectful, and was not fast. Due to the wind, which came in from the left, and because the road is along the coast, lots of sand blew across the road in some places. Thanks to my new glasses, which are designed for motor bikes and bicycles, the sand did not get in my eyes! I knew my quest to get the glasses was worth it. Now I just need to not lose them:) The stretch from the fork in the road to Anton Lizardo is fourteen km, and after that, the road bends more directly South and even a little southwest, more along the direction of the wind:) Soon I got to Anton Lizardo (nothing to write home about), I found the bend in the road, and I began to sail! My speed picked up to speeds of twenty miles an hour again. The scenery became lush and gorgeous. Biking seemed awesome and fun. I was using wind power! I could directly experience the energy that now creates more and more electricity in the US, and throughout the world. Did you know that the wind blowing across the Great Plains is more than enough to power the entire US electrical grid?! See http://www.uspirg.org .
Though I wasn't riding on St Patty's Day and didn't comment on it, an Irish saying came into my head: may the road always rise to meet your feet, may the wind always be at your back...I am three-eighth's Irish, from my mom's side. (I am also three-eighth's Polish and one quarter German).
Well, I am one-hundred percent American, and one-hundred percent Brazilian convert, or "honorary Brazilian". Smooth riding continued for while. I verbally thanked God for the beautiful scenery and the beautiful sun, and wind at my back. Then I saw something awesome: A giant iguana scurried across the road and its long tail disappeared into the tall grass. I am glad I get to tell these stories. They don't happen when you stay in the same place all the time, and perhaps that would only happen to a cycle tourist; a car might be too fast and crush the iguana. Some locals told me that happens a lot:(
I woo-hoo'ed anybody I saw to express my joy of the great ride I was having. Soon, I came to a fork in the road. I did not know where to go and there was no sign. I stopped some drivers the only way I can rely on--I just get right in the way, taking up the road. The guy stopped and I asked him which way to Alvarado. He said that neither of the road went there and I would have to go back. I did not believe that because I had looked at the map online and saw a through road. I asked the next guy who was a water delivery guy. He told me which prong went through. I was greatful and took off. After a fun stretch, the road dead-ended into a bigger road, one I had been on before the first time I went to Tlacotalpan. The road has a nice shoulder, and of course more traffic. I cruised along the road, but the wind was coming in now from the side mostly. I had to fight to resist some of the stronger gusts to stay on the road. Sand blew up, too, in some parts. I had to avoid some gravel in places. After a good, somewhat rolling, stretch, the road bent to the right, more in line with the wind. The scenery was more boring, plus I had already seen it. But I had energy and I pumped out the miles. After I had forty-two miles on the day, I needed to rest and eat. I stopped at the first restaurant I saw, which was just a hundred meters ahead. I told the lady inside I was biking from DC to Brazil--she told a couple hanging out in the restaurant, obviously friends or coworkers, what I said and the guy got really impressed. I asked if I could sit down and use the table outside. She welcomely consented. I went to use the restroom and the word spread to everyone in the vicinity. When I came out of the bathroom, everybody was waiting in a group. I confirmed I was riding from DC to Brazil, and they asked a few questions, and some stood in amazement. Afterward, most dispersed and the lady invited me to an inside table where the wind and sand would not bother me. I brought the sandwich and apple and banana the lady at the restaurant in Veracruz gave me, and the rest of the workers left asked more questions and I asked them some questions. We had a good time together, and afterwards I took off. I made it to Alvarado, said hi to those I met the first time around, and then moved onto Tlacotalpan. After seventy miles, I was tired and pulled into Tlacotalpan. Some event for Holy Week was going on, as the sheriff told me. I checked it out, and well, it wasn't worth it for me--I needed to take a shower and greet my hosts so I went to the Salon Euphoria where I stayed the last time I stayed in Tlaco. Sara, the mom, and Yarey, the eldest daughter, greeted me and began to catch up with me. Later, the two younger daughters showed up and then they all started getting caught up together. I explained what I did in Veracruz, what I bought, how long the card took to come (by the way, the card in the Mexican mail did finally come last thursday(!), six weeks after it was sent!--please be aware of this before sending something to Mexico--and US post offices should be up on this info--they told my dad it would take five to seven days! It was five weeks before I finally had the first one canceled and a new one Fed-Exed and that took just three days!). Then the girls asked to see my camera. They didn't just look at the brand, the model and the features--of course they began to go through the pictures (all of them) and really get an update on my time. Not that there was anything objectionable, but what if there was something I wanted to keep private? If I tried to take the camera back, then the girls would want to see even more and wonder what it was I wouldn't let them see! The girls were having a great time looking at all the girls I had taken pictures with. I didn't get defensive about the photos or the fact they were invading my privacy, and just noted that I let one slip--that I should think before I hand my camera over to someone to make sure all the photos were presentable. The girls then took a photo of themselves and had me take one of them and their mom. They headed off to chuch and I took a shower. They told me they would be back for me to go out with me:)
So I am back on the road, heading South again! I can make it to Catemaco tomorrow and Cosoleacaque the next day. My hands started to get numb today and my butt sore. I lost my cycle gloves and so I am using some motorcycle gloves instead. They are just leather and no padding. Perhaps I need to get another pair fo cycle gloves, and lubricant to reduce the seat friction. Maybe this is all because I haven't been really cycle touring in two months. I plan or hope to head out at sunrise everyday now. So I have to get to bed earlier. I really like the rhythm of getting up early and getting out on the road. It opens up my day to make progress and see everything in the morning light, which is really beautiful. The road ahead always holds more untouched beauty and discovery. In Catemaco, I hope to stay at the Nanciyaga nature reserve with the shamans who might give me a cleansing and the howler monkeys in the trees. The shelter they off there are huts without electricity, or maybe even water. Some of the trees there are extremely old and the species no longer exists anywhere else! I have contacts in Cosoleacaque, Tuxtla Gutierrez, San Cristobal de las Casas, Totonicapan, Nuevo San Salvador, and a city in Panama. If anyone has contacts in some of the other stops I listed, please let me know. Otherwise, I might try the fire stations.
