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Thursday, April 05, 2007

 
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On the Road Again! Veracruz to Tlacotalpan

Today, I woke up at 5:15am to howling winds. I was afraid this could potentially mean dangerous conditions on the road, perhaps stormy. I went downstairs to check the weather on the internet. Receptionist Anabel checked for me and to my pleasant suprise we found out that today, the wind would blow at twenty miles an hour from the north to south, and I was going south! It would be mostly sunny. Couldn't be better--the wind would be pushing me rapidly to my destination! My girlfriend had the same fears as me with the weather and text messaged me about that. Of course she doesn't want me to go, or at least she would love to have extra days. No such luck for her. I went back up and slept for another forty five minutes. My alarm went off at 7:15 and I came down.
I took a shower in alberca shower since I was staying in 603, which has no water (the rest of the hotel was full). I saluted Anabel, and Genado among others. Genado helped me get a towel, plus soap and shampoo. I had breakfast with Emilio, Sr. I had orange juice plus a selection of fruits, an omlette, beans and toast. I had to leave a bunch of items like some shirts because they wouldn't all fit on the bike, plus I wanted to cut down a little on weight.
Emilio signed my shirt; Juan had earlier. Mariela's boyfriend, who was waiting for Mariela, took a picture of me and Emilio, Jr. with the bike. I said bye to the crew of waiters, the cooks, the secretaries, lic. Pati, and others. A few girls on the school trip took pictures with me. I said goodbye to the folks at the Revolution restaurant--Marina and Jose. Marina gave me a torta, a banana and an apple. Then she gave me a waterbottle from "President" (a mexican beer company) and filled it with water. I drank one bottle, and then she refilled it.

Pretty soon, I took off. I went to Plaza Americas. The day, I thought, couldn't be better. The sun was bright, and with my new glasses, everything appeared crisp and beautiful. I felt as though, even though I had spent the last six weeks in Veracruz, everything appeared more interesting and worthy of admiring precisely because this could be the last time I saw the things I was seeing. Everything appeared "touristy": the monuments stood out, and the colors and architecture of the buildings as well. I had my camera, and I wanted to capture stuff now since I wouldn't be able to later. Makes me think now as I write about how people who are given a deadline on their life by doctors begin to appreciate everything in their life more just because they know they won't have it for long. And that makes me think of the saying, "Work as though you will live forever; Live as though you will die tomorrow." I took a few pictures, but as I am just getting used to this camera, I don't yet have a quick-draw method down that lets me take shots on the spur of the moment, even when my bike is still in motion.

As I moved along the boulevard, threading through traffic stuck at stoplights, and cruising between lights, the wind pushed me along at speeds over twenty miles per hour, and I felt I couldn't have picked a better day to ride. I passed into Boca del Rio. I went over to Plaza Americas where I would say goodbye to my girlfriend Hortencia. I brought my fully loaded bike into the plaza, and headed for Marti. I parked outside the store, and the employees, who all know I am going out with Hortencia, went to go tell Hortencia that I was at the store. She appeared and asked me what was going on. She did not expect me and thought I was long gone and she may never see me again, and she was determined to accept that fact. I told her that I was on my way out and I dropped in to say bye on my way out. I told her also that I need some tools for my bike. After she said that the store does sell any tools, I was suprised because the store carries bikes. I told her, though, that I did not need to buy tools; if I could just use some tools, that would be enough.. She alerted the staff and one staff with a backpack of tools came over and asked me which tools I wanted. I needed the philips screwdriver (cruz desarmador) and a very small allen wrench. He found the tools and I used them, and returned them. I told Hortencia I would miss her and call her. She asked me when I would come back. I told her perhaps eight months to a year.

We parted and I headed to the glasses store Devlyn to say goodbye and to get a new elastic band for my glasses as I my last one came off. Only Tomi and another older worker were there; none of the three younger women--Anita, Chelo or the girl from Oaxaca were there; they would come in at one, but I said I did not have time. Every minute of daylight is precious in terms of cycle touring; I need to arrive at my destination before nightfall. We worked out a solution for the glasses band. I even involved me breaking out a knot (nudo), the tautline hitch, that I learned with the Boy Scouts, and I told them that is where I learned it. The knot served to create a slide to loosen and tighten the cord as it lacked a slide. I parted with the staff and headed out. I pulled out of the plaza and into the other side of Boca del Rio, some of which I had never seen. I crossed the bridge over the mouth of the river, which is the name of the city. Soon, came to a fork in the road, one leading to Anton Lizardo, and town on the coast, and one toward Cordoba inland. If I took the route toward Cordoba, I would end up taking the same route I took the first time I biked to Tlacotalpan. I knew that if I took the road to Anton Lizardo, I would hug the coast more and meet up with a road I wanted to take because of its quality and because it avoided the section of road I fell on the last time where there was lots of gravel, and because the route was more direct. So I went toward Anton Lizardo. If nothing else, it would provide new terrain and vistas to experience. The road was good even though it was narrow and with no shoulder. Traffic was not heavy, was respectful, and was not fast. Due to the wind, which came in from the left, and because the road is along the coast, lots of sand blew across the road in some places. Thanks to my new glasses, which are designed for motor bikes and bicycles, the sand did not get in my eyes! I knew my quest to get the glasses was worth it. Now I just need to not lose them:) The stretch from the fork in the road to Anton Lizardo is fourteen km, and after that, the road bends more directly South and even a little southwest, more along the direction of the wind:) Soon I got to Anton Lizardo (nothing to write home about), I found the bend in the road, and I began to sail! My speed picked up to speeds of twenty miles an hour again. The scenery became lush and gorgeous. Biking seemed awesome and fun. I was using wind power! I could directly experience the energy that now creates more and more electricity in the US, and throughout the world. Did you know that the wind blowing across the Great Plains is more than enough to power the entire US electrical grid?! See http://www.uspirg.org .
Though I wasn't riding on St Patty's Day and didn't comment on it, an Irish saying came into my head: may the road always rise to meet your feet, may the wind always be at your back...I am three-eighth's Irish, from my mom's side. (I am also three-eighth's Polish and one quarter German).
Well, I am one-hundred percent American, and one-hundred percent Brazilian convert, or "honorary Brazilian". Smooth riding continued for while. I verbally thanked God for the beautiful scenery and the beautiful sun, and wind at my back. Then I saw something awesome: A giant iguana scurried across the road and its long tail disappeared into the tall grass. I am glad I get to tell these stories. They don't happen when you stay in the same place all the time, and perhaps that would only happen to a cycle tourist; a car might be too fast and crush the iguana. Some locals told me that happens a lot:(
I woo-hoo'ed anybody I saw to express my joy of the great ride I was having. Soon, I came to a fork in the road. I did not know where to go and there was no sign. I stopped some drivers the only way I can rely on--I just get right in the way, taking up the road. The guy stopped and I asked him which way to Alvarado. He said that neither of the road went there and I would have to go back. I did not believe that because I had looked at the map online and saw a through road. I asked the next guy who was a water delivery guy. He told me which prong went through. I was greatful and took off. After a fun stretch, the road dead-ended into a bigger road, one I had been on before the first time I went to Tlacotalpan. The road has a nice shoulder, and of course more traffic. I cruised along the road, but the wind was coming in now from the side mostly. I had to fight to resist some of the stronger gusts to stay on the road. Sand blew up, too, in some parts. I had to avoid some gravel in places. After a good, somewhat rolling, stretch, the road bent to the right, more in line with the wind. The scenery was more boring, plus I had already seen it. But I had energy and I pumped out the miles. After I had forty-two miles on the day, I needed to rest and eat. I stopped at the first restaurant I saw, which was just a hundred meters ahead. I told the lady inside I was biking from DC to Brazil--she told a couple hanging out in the restaurant, obviously friends or coworkers, what I said and the guy got really impressed. I asked if I could sit down and use the table outside. She welcomely consented. I went to use the restroom and the word spread to everyone in the vicinity. When I came out of the bathroom, everybody was waiting in a group. I confirmed I was riding from DC to Brazil, and they asked a few questions, and some stood in amazement. Afterward, most dispersed and the lady invited me to an inside table where the wind and sand would not bother me. I brought the sandwich and apple and banana the lady at the restaurant in Veracruz gave me, and the rest of the workers left asked more questions and I asked them some questions. We had a good time together, and afterwards I took off. I made it to Alvarado, said hi to those I met the first time around, and then moved onto Tlacotalpan. After seventy miles, I was tired and pulled into Tlacotalpan. Some event for Holy Week was going on, as the sheriff told me. I checked it out, and well, it wasn't worth it for me--I needed to take a shower and greet my hosts so I went to the Salon Euphoria where I stayed the last time I stayed in Tlaco. Sara, the mom, and Yarey, the eldest daughter, greeted me and began to catch up with me. Later, the two younger daughters showed up and then they all started getting caught up together. I explained what I did in Veracruz, what I bought, how long the card took to come (by the way, the card in the Mexican mail did finally come last thursday(!), six weeks after it was sent!--please be aware of this before sending something to Mexico--and US post offices should be up on this info--they told my dad it would take five to seven days! It was five weeks before I finally had the first one canceled and a new one Fed-Exed and that took just three days!). Then the girls asked to see my camera. They didn't just look at the brand, the model and the features--of course they began to go through the pictures (all of them) and really get an update on my time. Not that there was anything objectionable, but what if there was something I wanted to keep private? If I tried to take the camera back, then the girls would want to see even more and wonder what it was I wouldn't let them see! The girls were having a great time looking at all the girls I had taken pictures with. I didn't get defensive about the photos or the fact they were invading my privacy, and just noted that I let one slip--that I should think before I hand my camera over to someone to make sure all the photos were presentable. The girls then took a photo of themselves and had me take one of them and their mom. They headed off to chuch and I took a shower. They told me they would be back for me to go out with me:)
So I am back on the road, heading South again! I can make it to Catemaco tomorrow and Cosoleacaque the next day. My hands started to get numb today and my butt sore. I lost my cycle gloves and so I am using some motorcycle gloves instead. They are just leather and no padding. Perhaps I need to get another pair fo cycle gloves, and lubricant to reduce the seat friction. Maybe this is all because I haven't been really cycle touring in two months. I plan or hope to head out at sunrise everyday now. So I have to get to bed earlier. I really like the rhythm of getting up early and getting out on the road. It opens up my day to make progress and see everything in the morning light, which is really beautiful. The road ahead always holds more untouched beauty and discovery. In Catemaco, I hope to stay at the Nanciyaga nature reserve with the shamans who might give me a cleansing and the howler monkeys in the trees. The shelter they off there are huts without electricity, or maybe even water. Some of the trees there are extremely old and the species no longer exists anywhere else! I have contacts in Cosoleacaque, Tuxtla Gutierrez, San Cristobal de las Casas, Totonicapan, Nuevo San Salvador, and a city in Panama. If anyone has contacts in some of the other stops I listed, please let me know. Otherwise, I might try the fire stations.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Some photos my friend Lindsay took when she was in Veracruz with me, and some from the rest of her trip

Lindsay Read is from Wisconsin, lives in Minnesota, and will be working in DC this spring and summer. I met her in the tourism office in the Zocalo of Veracruz a few weeks ago. We spent a lot of time together during her two days in Veracruz--we ate at the famous Cafe de la Parroquia, we went to San Juan de Ulua (an old fort and jail), and I showed her the view from the top of Hotel Imperial. Click on the title of this entry for a slideshow.

Friday, March 30, 2007

Potential Itinerary

4/4/2007 Tlacotalpan
4/5/2007 Catemaco
4/6/2007 Cosoleacaque
4/7/2007 Las Choapas
4/8/2007 Raudales
4/9/2007 Tuxtla Gutierrez
4/10/2007 San Cristobal de las Casas
4/11/2007 Comitan de Dominguez
4/12/2007 Cd Cuautemoc
4/13/2007 Huehuetenango
4/14/2007 Totonicapan
4/15/2007 Lake Atitlan
4/16/2007 Cd Guate
4/17/2007 Jutiapa
4/18/2007 Santa Ana
4/19/2007 Nuevo San Salvador
4/20/2007 San Miguel
4/21/2007 Choluteca
4/22/2007 Chinandega
4/23/2007 Managua
4/24/2007 Masaya/Jonoteppe
4/25/2007 Rivas
4/26/2007 Liberia
4/27/2007 San Jose
4/28/2007 San Isodoro
4/29/2007 Palmar Norte
4/30/2007 La Concepcion/David
5/1/2007 Santiago
5/2/2007 Penonome
5/3/2007 Panama

Recent Pics

Ladies at the glasses shop, Boca Plaza de las Americas.

Puente de la Amistad

Me at the "Bridge of Friendship", Boca del Rio.

A crab just running in the street along the curb!

Rocio (Chio) and Adriana, hotel sales.

Pelon, Ana, and Karla.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Emmanuel's report of Mexico to Columbia

Click on "Emmanuel's report of Mexico to Columbia" above. A preview of territory I will cover.

Okay

I have my glasses now, and my digital camera, and my check card, the three main elements I needed to get in Veracruz. In terms of sponsorship, I hope to contact the companies of the US Climate Action Partnership: Alcoa, BP America, Caterpillar, Deere & Company, Duke Energy, DuPont, FPL Group, General Electric, Lehman Brothers, PG&E, and PNM Resources, which all support market-based programs and a federal-level solution for reducing greenhouse gases. I hope to get an interview with the Television before taking off from Veracruz. To make it to Panama by May 10, leaving tomorrow, I will have to average 35 miles a day. Should be doable. Some eighteen year-old in 1999 planned to average 67 miles per day from Alaska to Patagonia--he made it in 8 months, solo--a guinness world record. See Bike it Solo

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Pictures from Hotel Imperial: I got my camera!!!

Tag-team receptionists Xochitl and Mariela.

Me and Bernardo's brother, also a lawyer.

Posing with the norteno band--check out the tiger stripes on the bass.

Straight gata Carla.

Juan receiving his birthday cake at the party last night.

Juan receiving his birthday cake at his party last night.

Receptionist Xochitl ("Sochitl") and I. Xochitl means flower in the Aztec language of Nauhatl. The goddess of flowers, Xochipili, is featured on the 100 peso bill.

Cashier Carla from Gutierrez Zamora posing with the flowers.

Juan Velez' birthday party last night. From left to right: Imajin, Bernardo, me, Juan Velez, Ana Cervantes.

Luz, Anabel and I.

Anabel and Luz.

Luz and I.

My friend Anabel and I at the beach at night.

Anabel and I at the beach at night in Veracruz.

Bell boys Victor and Junior.

Bell boy "Junior", also a good soccer player.

What's up, world?

Friend and lawyer Bernardo, also friend of hotel owners. His father and Juan's father were both big lawyers in Mexico, and that is how they know each other. They are all following in their fathers' footsteps.

My friend Cuautemoc Benitez Patino, who is a tour guide and has gone on bicycle tours, motocross bike tours, and basically one of my biggest fans.

Getting the gloria at the tricycle vendor stand.

Anabel and Luz getting a raspada or a gloria, which is like a snow cone in a cup. Anabel's had raspberry and banana, I think.

Anabel and Luz cannot compose themselves for a photo on the beach.

Me and Luz on the beach at night in Veracruz.

My friend Luz, who I met through Anabel.

Luz not yet ready for the photo.

Receptionist Anabel on the right, her friend Luz on the left, my eyebrow on far left.

From left to right: Hotel manager Juan Velez, cashier Carla, me, Jorge/Pelon, Ana, Tuny, Manuel.

Workers in the La Revolucion restaurant, next door.

La Revolucion manager Marina (the restaurant next door, which actually helped me before I met the owners of the hotel).

Tuny taking care of a bill.

Waiter Manuel showing is tray skills. Leandro in backround.

Waiter Leandro with some drinks, waiter Manuel, and cook Maria Guadalupe in the backround.

Waiter/bartender Julio. Loves to dance to reggaeton song "Salio el Sol" by Don Omar.


Waiter Manuel. Big-time fan of soccer powerhouse Chivas Guadalajara--who by the way will be playing the Washington, DC United this Thursday, I think, in Guadalajara. Chivas and DC United tied 1-1 in the first leg of the match up in DC. Whoever wins the upcoming game will play the winner of Houston Dynamo and Pachuca (another Mexican powerhouse from the state of Hidalgo) in the final of the tournament. Manuel and I are constantly talking about our teams' matchup. I don't know who is going to win. Chivas have the hometown advantage, but DC is still capable of an upset/winning. Manuel is a good soccer player as well.


Cook Maria Guadalupe with some of her artwork.

From left to right: waiter Tuny, cashier Carla, restaurant manager Pelon ("Baldy")/Jorge, Ana Cervantes, and waiter Leandro--a good soccer player.

Ana Cervantes and Carla, in the hands of Pelon.

Cashier Yanet--a sweet girl, lived in San Francisco for a while.

Bellboy Victor. He is a great guy. Stands with the model of the Hotel and the base of the oldest elevator (it's still functioning) in Latin America.

Receptionist Pati; she is actually from a town, Minatitlan, that is three days down my path.

Hostess Karime and I.

Cashier Yanet and I.

Article about how the Swindle film is riddled with errors

Click on the title of this post for an article about how the Swindle film used misleading graphs and data to forward its points.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

Article and discussion of the Swindle Film

Click on the title of this post for an article about the below Swindle film for some summary of the film and following discussion by readers. I, personally, think the film was interesting, and it was the first time I had seen a polished presentation of some compelling counter points in the global warming discussion. While the global discussion on global warming has now shifted in favor of action, and in favor of the understanding that the rise in CO2 atmospheric concentrations, which even the makers of this film don't dispute are man-made, are CAUSING the warming we are seeing, I would like to see the rebuttle of the points raised in this film by the scientific community.
Of note on this blog, I have figured out how to allow comments to be made by anyone, not just registered users:)
Also of note, I just received my check card via FedEx mail (perhaps I should offset the emissions of the mailing:)). I had cancelled the other card and had my bank FedEx a new card directly to my hotel here in Veracruz. In the next couple of days, I will buy new glasses and digital camera, and then I plan to head South!

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

A movie challenging the fundamental cause of global warming

I ran across a video called The Great Global Warming Swindle. It might just be a scam. However, I do kind of want to get the scientist's response to the claims in the video. While the video claims the variation in the sun's activity causes the warming, scientists have said that they cannot attribute the current warming trend to purely natural/non-anthropogenic causes.